When my mother was growing up, her mother would prepare nian gao for the Lunar New Year. These sweet rice cakes rarely made an appearance because they were so tedious to make: A-ma had to soak an entire sack of glutinous rice in water, then grind the rice with a millstone, and squeeze the water out through a linen to make a wet dough. The dough was sweetened with brown sugar, formed into little cakes and then steamed.
There are, apparently, many different kinds of nian gao; sometimes the rice cakes are used in a savory stirfry, sometimes it might come with red bean (like the version pictured here) or sesame paste, like tang yuan (and many other Chinese desserts). (Photo by u m a m i)
These days, it’s much easier to make nian gao, since there’s glutinous rice flour readily available and even pre-made rice cakes you just have to steam and serve. Or forgo the sticky mess and get them at a pastry shop. Unfortunately, you might have to wait a while for these; I’ve been combing the bakeries in Chinatown (Manhattan) this week and have come up empty-handed. (Though they always tell me “No more,” which could either mean they’re no longer being offered for the New Year, they’re out by the time I get there, or they just never make them.)
Anyone out there with a nian gao tip, I’m all ears.