Blog: Guest Blogger

This one’s for you, Mom

February 22, 2008 – 8:18 am

It’s rather fitting that my last post in this series should be about family, since I’ve leaned so heavily on my mother and mined her memories for most of the previous ones.

I’m supposed to be thinking especially about her this time of year. Not only is this the time to get together with one’s family, but it’s also particularly important to honor one’s elders and ancestors. New Year’s Eve is reserved for wei lu with the immediate family, and the following day is devoted to visiting grandparents and other relatives, neighbors, and friends to wish them happiness in the new year. (If you’re Korean, there’s a lot of bowing to the elders too, from what I understand.)

So New Year’s Day has gone and passed, I know, but I’d like to wish you and yours and all the moms out there xi nian kuai le! May your Year of the Rat be a prosperous one and filled with good fortune. And may you eat many delicious things.

Nian gao

February 21, 2008 – 4:21 pm

When my mother was growing up, her mother would prepare nian gao for the Lunar New Year. These sweet rice cakes rarely made an appearance because they were so tedious to make: A-ma had to soak an entire sack of glutinous rice in water, then grind the rice with a millstone, and squeeze the water out through a linen to make a wet dough. The dough was sweetened with brown sugar, formed into little cakes and then steamed.

There are, apparently, many different kinds of nian gao; sometimes the rice cakes are used in a savory stirfry, sometimes it might come with red bean (like the version pictured here) or sesame paste, like tang yuan (and many other Chinese desserts). (Photo by u m a m i)

These days, it’s much easier to make nian gao, since there’s glutinous rice flour readily available and even pre-made rice cakes you just have to steam and serve. Or forgo the sticky mess and get them at a pastry shop. Unfortunately, you might have to wait a while for these; I’ve been combing the bakeries in Chinatown (Manhattan) this week and have come up empty-handed. (Though they always tell me “No more,” which could either mean they’re no longer being offered for the New Year, they’re out by the time I get there, or they just never make them.)

Anyone out there with a nian gao tip, I’m all ears.

Soll food: Or, Koreans like rice cakes too

February 20, 2008 – 9:09 am

Though I tend to call this holiday “Chinese” New Year, it turns out Lunar New Year is not the sole province of the Chinese. The Vietnamese have Tet, various Chinese communities in Indonesia and Malaysia have their versions, and Koreans have Soll.

Like Chinese New Year (and western New Year celebrations, for that matter), Korean New Year has much to do with renewal, starting afresh, clean slates. There are also similar traditions of getting families together, dressing up in traditional garb, playing games, and honoring ancestors. But most importantly, there are rice cakes.

While the versions Chinese people eat for New Year tend to be sweet, the rice cakes Koreans care about this time of year are put in a savory soup, dduk gook. (Dduk = rice cake, which comes in many forms in the Korean repertoire; the one used in this soup is the sliced oval version you can find at supermarkets like Han Ah Reum in K-Town.) (Photo by Christine)

And since dduk gook wasn’t ever a part of my New Year growing up, I asked my friend Joyce L. to describe the soup:

Growing up I always looked forward to the New Year because my mom would prepare dduk gook for us all.

My family would gather around the table, which was already set with the fixings in the middle: long yellow strips of fried egg, the all important crunchy salty gim also cut into strips, green onions (which I avoided, bad Korean that I am), and crumbled bulgogi.

One year there were even strips of ham; we lived in the Midwest, after all.

My mom would set down steaming bowls of dduk gook in front of us and we’d be able to add whichever ingredients we wanted and stir it all together. Dduk has this great chewy texture and I loved how the soup coated everything, making it slimy and oh so good.

Superstitions

February 19, 2008 – 6:59 am

I never knew there were so many rituals tied to the New Year beyond the larger, more public celebrations (big dinners, lion dances, etc.). My mom was very emphatic about getting all the cleaning and work on the house done before New Year’s Eve. And then there was Joyce H.’s recollection of how her family would leave a fish in the refrigerator until it got moldy for good luck. That must explain the way-past-expired head of cabbage and plate of green-fuzzed pineapple cake I saw at that store the other day. (I would have taken pictures but it wasn’t pretty, much less appetizing.) I’m going to go with Joyce’s explanation, since further research hasn’t yielded anything, but if anyone knows what the deal is with the moldy food, I’d love to know.

Joyce H. also mentions some other superstitions that surround Lunar New Year: No sweeping the floors on the day of, no cutting the hair for one
month (”cutting away the fortune”), no purchasing shoes for a month. I
think you’re also suppose to wear new clothes on New Year’s Day too.

The Holiday Color

February 19, 2008 – 6:58 am

If you ask a Chinese person what is the color for the Chinese New Year, you will get “red” as the answer: The red envelopes, the red lanterns, the red firecrackers, the red Dui Lians, etc. The red color, in Chinese, symbolizes good fortune and good luck. Certain holidays associate with certain colors. This is true in many cultures. Another good example is the color green , which is the color for the Saint Patrick’s Day in Western culture. In China, however, green sometimes can be considered unlucky. For example, no one in China really wants to wear a green hat, as it means your partner or spouse is having an affair with another person. So giving someone a green hat is almost an insult. However, if you give someone in the U.S. a green hat on St. Patrick’s day or any day, the person will thank you politely. Red and green are two very interesting colors and mean the opposite things in both the U.S. and China. For example, when the stock market is doing well in the U.S., you see an ocean of green colors on the stock screen. When the market is down, you see red colors everywhere. In China, things are the opposite way: red means the market is up, and green means the market is down. Also, money in the U.S. is green. The most common bill, $100, in China, is very red and has Mao’s picture on it.

A friend asked me what kind of music sounds red? I sent him this track, which is a Chinese Folk-Rock I improvised and sang in. Please let me know if it is not red enough, I can always add more spices to it ;)

If you do not see flash audio player please install the latest flash player.

Get festive

February 18, 2008 – 12:02 pm

While on my tang yuan expedition, I came across a shop that seemed to specialize in all things Lunar New Year-related. I neglected to jot down the name or address of this place, unfortunately, but you won’t miss it if you walk down Mott south of Canal. It’s on the west side, a tiny storefront that would completely escape notice were it not for the fact that some red creature made of paper and plastic seems to have exploded inside.

Not only are there fake oranges and fake firecrackers to hang and plastic gold ingots to decorate with, but you’ve got hundreds of different kinds of hong bao to choose from and lion masks to boot. There are a couple of other similar shops at the corner of Bayard and Mott, but I think this one might be the best, if only for sheer product-to-square footage ratio.

Tang yuan

February 15, 2008 – 12:44 am

Mom says one of the things one must eat for Lunar New Year is tang yuan, or glutinous rice balls. There are savory versions (some pork-filled, even), but I’ve only ever had the sweet kind, which can come stuffed (with red bean or sesame paste, among other things) or unstuffed.

Stuffed tang yuan are served in the water in which they’re cooked, while the unstuffed kind might be served in a warm red bean or sesame paste soup. The kind I had today at White Swan Bakery in Manhattan’s Chinatown came in water sweetened with rock sugar and flavored with ginger. Whatever kind you get, the rice balls themselves are bound to be chewy and sticky. The Chinese have a special appreciation for textures in their food. Especially the squishy kind.

White Swan Bakery
24 Bowery
New York, NY 10013

Red envelope

February 14, 2008 – 1:23 pm

The best part about this time of year, kids will tell you, is getting the hong bao, or red envelope. Like noodles, hong bao make an appearance at birthdays and other times of year (I saw them handed out most recently at a cousin’s wedding), but they’re most associated with the New Year.

They’re red, of course, the luckiest color, and stuffed with money — some token amount, like $10 (or $20, maybe, if you’re extra lucky). Or people who pay special attention to such things might stick some amount with an “8″ in the envelope, since the number 8 sounds like the word for “wealth” and is therefore considered lucky. Man, we’re a superstitious bunch.

Hong bao are given to children and supposedly also to anyone who’s unmarried, but that starts to get a little humiliating at a certain point in one’s adulthood, as my friend Francis can attest.

I had the good fortune this year to receive a hong bao from my friend Allison, who happened upon an especially interesting envelope specimen, from an anthropological standpoint: above, the characters across the top say, “Where there’s a will, there’s a way.” The rat (I don’t know about you, but none of the rats I’ve ever seen in NYC look like that) is surrounded by gifts and gold ingots (like dumplings!). He’s even wearing a number 8 on his jersey. Maybe roller skates are good luck too.

Long live noodles!

February 13, 2008 – 9:58 am

Before this assignment, the Lunar New Year associations I had in my head were few: lion dance, red envelope, and noodles. I mean, as a child, what’s funnier than seeing a bunch of your friends forced to dress up in traditional garb and parade around under a giant tasseled, eye-lid fluttering head? And what’s better than getting money? (We’ll discuss the whole red envelope thing in an upcoming post.) The first two traditions have fallen by the wayside since my childhood, but noodles — noodles are forever. Or at least a really long time.

That’s the whole point, in fact. Noodles represent longevity, and so they’re especially significant this symbol-heavy time of year. And apparently, the noodle/longevity thing is good for birthdays too. I like to eat noodles all year long.

And I have so many kinds to choose from! The E-Fu (or yifu) noodles we had at the wei lu on New Year’s Eve at Sun Ming Gee are a Cantonese specialty. They’re egg noodles made with wheat flour that are deep-fried and dried into bricks, like ramen, and then reconstituted through braising or some other cooking method. I’m not a huge fan of these; while tasty, the texture tends to be squishy.

My mother mentioned mian xian, or misua in Taiwanese. These are thin wheat noodles that are often cooked in a vinegary soup (in Taiwanese cooking, anyway) with oysters, fish balls, or intestines. My mom ate these noodles for New Year’s when she was growing up. And when I was growing up, she would cook misua with the trout we caught when we went fishing (though this was never during New Year). If anyone can tell me where to get good Taiwanese misua in the five boroughs, I’d love to know. (Photo by Jackson)

What I can point you to, however, is dan dan mian, a Sichuan specialty of wheat noodles topped with a ground pork and preserved vegetable sauce with the added sensory one-two punch of chiles (searingly hot) and Sichuan peppercorns (numbing nearly to the point of coldness, if that makes sense). The best dan dan mian I ever had in New York was at J&L Mall (which was really little more than a grungy — yet gloriously authentic — food court) in Flushing, unfortunately now defunct. But fortunately Flushing has not totally forsaken quality dan dan mian; get your long-life-in-a-bowl at:

Xiao La Jiao
133-43 Roosevelt Avenue
Flushing, NY 11354

Spicy & Tasty
3907 Prince St #1H
Flushing, NY 11354

Clean slate

February 12, 2008 – 7:52 am

The days leading up to the New Year, Mom says, should be devoted to cleaning. To start off the year right, your house needs a total, thorough washing: windows, doors, inside, outside, everything. Chinese tradition takes this one step further. Any work that’s being done on your house, whether it’s a simple paint job or total kitchen renovation, is hastened to a finish before New Year’s Eve.

Once the house is clean, painted, and renovated, it’s time to decorate. In China (and Taiwan), you can buy poems from street vendor-calligraphers. The poems are painted on red (considered a lucky color, good for any time of year) posters that might be up to six feet long. The verse might either be a well known classic the calligrapher committed to memory long ago, most likely as a student, or an original he’s composed himself. These poems usually augur good fortune for the coming year, prosperity, success for the offspring, etc. They’re hung outside the home around doorways and on windows to welcome such prophecies into the home and make them come true.

Many people will also place a square poster on the door with just one character written on it. And sometimes, you’ll see the poster hung upside down. In Mandarin, dao, or “upside down,” can also mean “arrives” or “comes,” so turning the character “Spring” or “fortune” upside down means “Spring arrives” or “Fortune comes.”

Photos by “*Susie* (top) and China Chas (above).


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